Old dog new tricks: Surfing

Tackling the Texas breaks

I have a sore right nipple. I also have grazes on my knees. And on my elbows. Oh, and my entire body aches.

I'm 34 so I'm not quite the oldest dog, but I'm old enough to know that you're often at an advantage learning a new trick like surfing when you're a teenager, simply because the bumps, bruises, scrapes, cuts – and rashes – don't seem to hurt as much. Plus you can get up the next day and do it all over again. Not so when you're 34. Believe me.

I've come to Port Aransas, Texas, to learn to surf. Each summer, Texas Surf Camps runs week-long courses in which you learn the ropes (if you're a beginner like me) or hone those skills, from 8.30 in the morning until 2pm. This isn't just a couple of lazy hours over a weekend – this is surf boot camp, Texas-style, in the Gulf of Mexico. If you can't get up on your board by the end of the course, well, you must be pretty hopeless.

I'm the oldest student here by far but I'm not going to be deterred – or bettered – by these young whippersnappers. My dad learned to surf (in the freezing waters of Cornwall) back in the 1960s but he'd never taught me. It was now time for me to follow in his footsteps.

Ironically, I discover that I'm about to be taught to surf by a fellow Englishman: my instructor, Tristan, is from Cornwall (although he's lost almost all of his accent).

The water on the Gulf coast at this time of year is warm and the waves at Port Aransas are fairly small, but they're consistent – perfect for beginners. Don't be fooled though; there are pro surfers round these 'ere parts as well. Texas Surf Camps was started by Morgan Faulkner, a former amateur state surf champion from Corpus Christi who is now a pro rider for Quiksilver. When the surf here isn't up to scratch, Morgan and his friends simply ride on the wakes of the huge oil tankers instead. During the summer he teaches (mostly kids)....

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