Great Big Paddle

A 2,500km journey along Australia's longest river

On December 20th, an email popped into the WideWorld inbox from adventurer Dave Cornthwaite. "I reached the Murray Mouth yesterday afternoon to complete the expedition," he wrote. "Amazing! Total distance travelled was 2476km, in a touch over two and a half months."

The day before, at 2.30pm, Welshman Cornthwaite arrived at South Australia’s Coorong National Park after paddling his kayak - which he'd named Nala - the entire length of the country's greatest river, the Murray. Not a bad feat considering he only took up kayaking eight months ago.

Cornthwaite's aim was to draw attention to the plight of the Murray. "The river existed before borders sliced up this wonderful land," Cornthwaite said, "and so long as those borders prevent the river from being managed consistently and fairly, a tragic environmental catastrophe will slowly become reality. The signs of decline are there for all to see; please Australia, for goodness sake, take notice, and then take action. You have a gem here, look after it."

In the process he has also raised funds for the AV Foundation's solar and water project, providing drinking water to East African schools and communities. But it wasn't the first adventure for Cornthwaite. In fact he's a bit of a veteran - a couple of years ago he left his job in Wales and travelled the length of the UK, and then across Australia from Perth to Brisbane (a journey of 5,823 kms) all by skateboard. Back then he got through 14 pairs of shoes and five sets of wheels. This time round he has opted to sit down for the entire expedition - but it was no less exhausting

WideWorld caught up with Cornthwaite just before he reached the end of his monumental journey.

Describe a typical day?

Get up at around 6am, sometimes 5.30. I make a little bit of breakfast, and possibly coffee. Then I’ll be on the water by 7am and I’ll paddle as hard as I can. On the whole I just try to get as far as I can before the heat of the sun gets too much to bear. I usually finish paddling between 2pm and 3pm.

I’m filming a documentary about this journey and there is plenty of interest to see on the river.

How do you sleep?

I’m lucky enough to travel on a river where there is always a bank to the side. Sometimes on the Murray there are enormous beaches – occasionally 200 - 300 meters long – it’s almost like having your own private beach for the night. I pitch my tent and set up camp and I make myself some food and I try to get an early night and leave the next morning and onwards, downwards.

How did you come up with the idea?

I’ve always loved to travel, and loved adventure. Three years ago I pushed a skateboard across Australia, from Perth to Brisbane. I was finding it pretty tricky on the road – I was tired mentally, with all the traffic coming past me. I pushed it on to a passenger ferry, just south of Adelaide in a place called Wellington. It was just a wonderful experience, it was so peaceful and I just thought it just made sense to be on water instead of the road. Earlier this year I was ready to do another big expedition – it was paddling the Murray.

Describe what it's like paddling the Murray

I'm in a kayak so I’m surrounded by my kit – the kayak is 17ft long and bright yellow. I’m probably carrying 80 kilos worth of kit with all my cameras.

The scenery changes every 100th km. The one real constant is probably red gum trees – these are enormous trees and they are being threatened by the drought in Australia. They are beautiful and they give off this wonderful wonderful smell.

The river is getting wider and wider as I get down to the mouth – up to 200 meters wide – and eventually it actually widens out into a lake which is few kilometres wide.

My bum is under the water level and I see everything from probably two or three feet above the surface.

Are you ever scared?

I learnt to paddle in February, but it’s a really easy sport to get into. I prepared really well for this journey. I know where I’m heading – I know what various dangers each place represents. It’s more a journey of wonder and investigation than fear. I feel completely comfortable, considering I only took it up about eight or nine months ago - the feeling of being set with everything I need for two and a half months on the river is a great feeling.

What are the constant dangers?

There are an awful lot of snags in the Murray river because it has changed its course over the past few thousand years, so where there used to be trees and forest the river now flows so there are a lot of trees underneath the water. I probably hit about three or four every day. If you hit them at the wrong angle (and this happened four weeks ago) they can tip you over.

Then you have got these almost ‘mythical’ dangers which people face in Australia – the spiders and snakes and other wildlife. I haven’t really had an issue with spiders, but I have seen a few poisonous snakes – there are a few in this area. And they swim as well - so there is no escape. But actually you get used to them, you see a few snakes and you realise that they will actually back off. I have a stick, not to beat the snakes with, but to beat the river bank so that they know that something is around. 

How do you prepare for a journey like this?

It was the case of getting my head in the right place. Paddling 2500km isn’t for everybody but it’s my sort of dream and I had to comprehend what I was about to do and basically believe that I could do it.

It is a big logistical journey, not only filming a documentary, but writing a book about the troubles that the Murray is facing at the moment as well as planning the adventure. I’m doing a big fundraising event and I want to meet as many people as possible who live and work off the river – because they are the ones who have the knowledge.

What do people on the way tell you about the river?

One big wonder of travelling for me, I love communicating with locals and finding out exactly where I’m travelling – I’m not the kind of guy to hide away in a campsite. I’ve learnt a huge amount about this place, and the Murray is a very topical issue in Australia at the moment, because there is a big drought out here and the water levels have gone down. Farmers need water for irrigation so it is a big deal.

There is a lot of bitterness and anger because some people downstream don’t have as much water as the towns upstream. Thousands of farmers downstream are losing their land and are literally having to walk away from land their families have farmed for generations – it’s no matter of life and death but it is a matter of security for families and that’s a huge deal.

Can things be done to solve the issues with river Murray?

To a degree yes … the main issue they have here is they waste too much water. It’s about water usage. The politicians – the people who make the decisions – don’t live on the river and as a consequence the government has drained the Murray because the literally pump it back into other rivers, and fill those rivers up which leaves hundreds of dead fish floating because their environment has been completely disrupted.

Do you miss anything from being away?

Not really, I mean I love coming to the end of a journey and being able to rest and seeing my friends and partner – its not always easy being away from your loved ones I suppose, but at the same time I really struggle to keep my feet on the ground when I’m home – I’m always thinking up a new project. When I’m doing an expedition it is all about that and there is real focus on that moment.

Do you ever feel lonely?

You get incredible highs and lows but I understand the consequences of that. I have learnt to feel comfortable with my own company, and I’ve always got my cameras and I do a little bit of a video blog and turn the screen around and I can kind of see a face – like you’re talking to someone almost.

What are your tips to others?

Get advice from people who have done similar things. If anyone wants to set up their own expedition I’m always open to give advice to them. This comes from deep roots from unhappiness that I had when working in a nine to five job that I didn’t enjoy and I know that a lot of other people are in that situation and it’s important to keep yourself alive. Just working for a pay cheque with a job you hate – you’ll eventually regret it.

Don’t be fearful - paddling this river was a difficult thing to comprehend because I had never done anything like it before. Now I’m here it’s just my life and I’m so glad that I chucked myself in at the deep end and gave it a go because it seems so natural. It’s difficult to break down inherent fears that people have of being alone – but just prepare well and believe that you can do it.

What are you doing after this?

Staying in Australia for two months, I’m writing the book and finishing the documentary. Then I’m back in the UK in February. In 2012 I’ll be going down the Amazon.

I have a charitable aim - I have a project with the AV foundation and I work very closely with them on solar and water project in East Africa. We dig water barrels and provide pumps. We also provide solar panels on schools and community buildings. All the donations we get go straight into this project.

What have been the best and worst parts of the journey?

The worst parts – bad weather, paddling with all the gear and I am in the middle of Australia where there are no emergency services.

Best bits – just travelling down this enormous river which is so significant to millions of people and also as an iconic part of Australia. I’ve seen a huge amount of wildlife and that’s always such a joy – even down to all the snakes and the spiders. It’s amazing seeing a six-foot bird on the banks just running away when you come close and I’ve seen eagles every single day. It’s almost like stepping back in time a little bit along the river in the middle of nowhere – wildlife just flourishes – it makes you feel alive.

To donate, visit: http://www.justgiving.com/greatbigpaddle. For more information visit: www.thegreatbigpaddle.com